Momiji (紅葉) or Japanese Maples are the stars of Autumn in Japan. Just like Cherry Blossoms are in spring, these vibrant red leaves draw admirers from every corner of our globe every Fall. Momijigari, the term for viewing the stunning red, orange and golden foliage is a tradition for the Japanese people. I was super lucky to be travelling through Japan’s main island ,Honshu, one Autumn, and caught some foliage at its peak. Here are some of the best spots and tips for admiring this magic of nature.
When is the best time to see Maples and Fall foliage ?
Maples and Fall foliage start to colour around mid-October. If photographers are looking to catch a golden carpet, late September and October is the sweet spot. Depending on the temperature, location and elevation, the leaves will colour at varied rates. Each year has its unique schedule with the northernmost island of Japan starting as early as mid-September. For those looking to view the classic bright red maple leaves, November is the month to catch most of these leaves as in most of Japan; this is the peak foliage time. For late arrivals, you can still see the end of fall foliage season as late as December, but most will have fallen. Keep in mind; leaves change according to the cold waves sweeping through Japan. If it comes early, the leaves change before the usual time, and if the cold comes late, then it comes later. Japan releases an official forecast every year for fall foliage viewing. You can view the latest schedule here.
Major Cities vs the Countryside
Japan takes great pride in its public and private gardens. This unique aspect makes it easy to find and enjoy Maple and Fall foliage anywhere. In cities, there are always big gardens and shrines which houses these colourful leaves. Take your venture out to the countryside, the view from the train and mountains are full of the signature red and gold. On this trip, I explored a mix of iconic city gardens as well as made smaller villages. For those who are looking for a more manicured and maintained view of Maple foliage, cities are a better option. If you are looking to experience more relaxed natural scenes, then the countryside is a better option. Keep in mind many of the smaller villages may not offer English menus or signs as international tourism may not be popular there.
Rijugien Garden (六義園) – Tokyo
Rikugien gardens are one of the most popular Maple tree and Fall foliage spots in Tokyo. Created at the request of Japan’s fifth Shogun, this traditional Japanese garden depicts the remaining thirty-two of eighty-eight scenes from six classical poems. This garden holds a man-made hill, a pond and seemingly endless winding paths. This park is enormous with plenty to explore both inside and around. Nearby is Ueno Park, which is also a popular place for Momijigari fans. I would highly recommend it as a picnic spot and reserving a full day to explore the area. During Autumn, this park is illuminated at night for visitors to enjoy the red and gold leaves in an almost eerily magical way.
Peak Momijigari Time: Usually around mid-November to early December
Opening Hours: 9:00-17:00, 7 days. Depending on the season, this park may stay open longer for events like Hanami (cherry blossoms) or Momijigari
Entry Price: 300 Yen
Getting There: The park is approximately 7 minute walk from Komagome Station (駒込駅)
Tip: The vantage point from the hill will give you a full look at the entire garden. If the illumination event is on, I would highly recommend viewing it again at night.
Kenrokuen Garden (兼六園) – Kanazawa
One of the three more beautiful gardens of Japan, Kenrokuen Garden was once a private garden of the Maeda family. Now open to the public, this garden holds the six attributes all Japanese gardens should aim to have; seclusion, antiquity, spaciousness, human ingenuity, water and scenic views. In Autumn, Momijigari followers can find red maples near Kodatsuno Gate on the eastern side of the gardens at Yamazakiyama section. There are fall foliage trees scattered around the rest of the garden. Depending on the year, there may be night illumination events for visitors to see a different view of Fall. I caught the start of the illuminations and the scenery from around the pond is a must-see. Early admission hours are available during the period of Momijigari for photographers to catch relatively people-free park. Visitors who choose to explore the park in early admission hours must leave the park before regular hours start. If you wish to stay for longer, you will have to go back to the entrance and reenter.
Peak Momijigari Time: Usually around mid-November to early December
Opening Hours: 7:00 – 18:00 (March – mid-October), 8:00 – 17:00 (mid-October – February), 7 Days. Early admission sessions are available from 4:00 (April – August), 5:00(March, September – October), 6:00 (November – February). Depending on the season, this park may stay open longer for events like Hanami (cherry blossoms), Momijigari or illumination events.
Entry Price: 320 Yen for standard admission hours, early admission session is free
Getting There: Take the Kanazawa Loop Bus or Kenrokuen Shuttle Bus from the east Kanazawa station exit (aka Kenrokuen exit). Bus cost 200 yen and is approximately a 20 minute ride.
Tip: Get to the park early for their early admission session to experience a almost tourist free and tranquil garden. The Maple tree section has a beautiful winding step path with a small hill top vantage point. You will get the best photos at the bridge and going up the path instead of being at the top or coming down. For illumination event viewers, the best photos are taken at the edge of the lake. Once you are doing the rounds on the bridges of the lake the ground keepers will keep you moving and not let you stop to take photos for safety and crowd control reasons.
Yakuoin-Onsenji Temple (薬王院温泉寺) – Kaga Onsen
According to local legend, Yakuoin Onsenji Temple was founded by Gyoki on his journey to scale mount Haku. As he passed through the area, he stumbled upon a sacred three-legged bird taking a bath in the local spring water. This temple holds a series of small shrines. From the main buildings, there are paths which lead to other smaller temples and the mountains behind. For Maple lovers, you won’t have to look far. There are some stunning Japanese Maples just at the entrance courtyard. If you are feeling a little adventurous, take the mountain path up to see a view of the red and gold surrounding mountain ranges at Sazaedo lookout.
Peak Momijigari Time: Usually around mid-November to early December
Opening Hours: There is not really an opening hour for visitors to access the grounds. Some of the Shrines are only open during the day but for visitors who are just looking around for the view, you can visit at any time.
Entry Price: Free
Getting There: Take the local bus from Kaga Onsen Station (加賀温泉駅) and get of at Yamashiro Onsen Higashi-guchi. The temple is approximately 7 minutes walk from the bus stop.
Tip: If you stand at the entrance Tori Gate and take the photo in you will get a great shot of the foliage. Walk a little more in and get a shot up the main temple courtyard steps leading up to the shrines of the mountain and you will capture most of the red trees. Just beware that the mountain path is a little creepy .Yes there’s a story here.
Yunikuni No Mori Village (加賀伝統工芸村 ゆのくにの森) – Komatsu
In Kaga Onsen region sits a handicraft village which invites visitors to experience the best of Japanese traditional arts and craft. This village holds eleven traditional houses showcasing different traditions as well as a few restaurants. Naturally, Momiji (Maple) trees are part of the culture that is on display here. This hillside village offers an incredible array of Fall foliage. All you have to do is walk around, and you will get some classic shots of Japanese houses surrounded by gold and red. If you are planning to visit, I highly recommend staying the day and exploring everything this compact village has to offer.
Peak Momijigari Time: Usually around mid-November to early December
Opening Hours: There is not really a opening
Entry Price: 300 Yen
Getting There: Take the local bus from Kaga Onsen Station (加賀温泉駅) and get of at Yamashiro Onsen Higashi-guchi. The temple is approximately 7 minutes walk from the bus stop.
Tip: Take a small walk up the mountain path and steps and you will get a great view of the full village below.
Tenryuji (天龍寺) – Arashiyama
One of the top five Zen temples of Kyoto, Tenryuji Temple is the head temple of the Tenryu sect of Rinzai Zen Buddhism. This royal villa turned temple holds some stunning ponds, streams and an array of Maple leaves. In Autumn, the mix of red and gold shouts loud and clear between the lush green Japanese bamboo in the nearby forest. Whilst already here, visitors can explore the vast tatami rooms or take in the view whilst sitting on one of the broad, wooden verandas. There are many smaller temples within this large compound. Some temples, like Kogenji Temple (弘源寺), have zen gardens filled with maples. The contrast of white, dry landscape rock garden grounds against star like brilliant red leaves are shockingly beautiful.
Peak Momijigari Time: Usually around late-November to early December
Opening Hours: 8:30 – 17:30, 8:30 – 17:00 (late October – late March)
Entry Price: 500 Yen (Garden and pond only), 100 yen (Temple halls), there are additional entrance charges for some of the smaller temples inside
Getting There: Approximately 10 minute walk from JR Saga-arashiyama Station (嵯峨嵐山駅), approximately 3 minute walk from Arashiyama Station (嵐山駅) on Randen Arashiyama line, approximately 15 minute walk from Hankyu Arashiyama Station (阪急嵐山駅前)
Tip: Arashiyama is a highly recommend Momijigari place. Get up super early (I got up before sunrise) to make the most of the place tourist free. There will be a few photographers around but you can get around without being swamped by crowds. I highly recommend spending the day here and taking a river boat ride on the mountains to see the full stretch of Fall foliage in the local mountain range.
Tokufuji Temple (東福寺) – Kyoto
Get ready to share this space with more people than you have ever thought you can fit into one temple. This temple is Kyoto’s most popular place to experience Momijigari for both local and international tourists. It holds a spectacular view of different shades of red Maples standing among the golden Fall foliage. The aerial view is particularly impressive from the Tsutenkyo Bridge and traditional Japanese covered hallways. Just be aware of your surroundings and mindful of others as you explore and take photos. Leave aside a couple of hours for this location as getting in and out will take a bit of time.
Peak Momijigari Time: Usually around mid to late November
Opening Hours: 7 days, 9:00 – 16:30 (April to October), 8:30 – 16:30 (November to early December), 9:00 – 16:00 (early December to March) Admission end 30 minutes before closing.
Entry Price: 400 Yen (Tsutenkyo Bridge and Kaisando Hall Only ), 400 yen (Hojo and Gardens)
Getting There: Approximately 10 minute walk from Tokufuji Station (東福寺駅)
Tip: Get to the shrine before the opening time so you can be the first to be let in when they open. There will be people already waiting but the real crowds will not have started yet. When crossing the bridge there will be crowd control moving people along. It’s best to put your camera or go-pro on record mode then take out individual shots as photos as you will not have the chance to stop and the crowd behind you will not be happy if you do.
Nara Park (奈良公園) – Nara
Here will be the most en-deer-ring and “oh deer”-ing part of your experience in Japan (excuse the puns, I couldn’t help myself). Nara Park is home to the infamous Sika deers. Here you will get to feed these always ravenous locals whilst being surrounded by canopies and carpets of red and golden fall foliage. Once you’ve had enough of being bowed to by your new furry friends, take a short two-minute walk to Isuien (依水園) and Yoshiki-en Gardens (吉城園). You will find a much more classic manicured Maple scene here with less of a crowd to take in everything.
Peak Momijigari Time: Usually around mid November to early December
Nara Park Opening Hours: 24 hours, 7 Days
Nara Park Entry Price: Free
Isuien Garden Opening Hours: 9:30 – 16:30 (June – March), 9:30 – 17:00 (April – May) Admission ends 30 minutes before closing. Closed Tuesdays (or the following day if Tuesday is a national holiday); from late December to mid January and in the last third of September
Isuien Garden Entry Price: 1200 yen
Yoshiki-en Gardens Opening Hours: 9:00 – 17:00 Admissions close 30 minutes before closing. Open all year with exception of closing on February 24 to 28
Yoshiki-en Gardens Entry Price: Free
Getting There: Approximately 10 minute walk from Tokufuji Station (東福寺駅)
Tip: Plant to spend at least half a day exploring all three places. Start the day early so you catch everything without hitting crowds and have the rest of the day to explore more of Nara. If you are looking for things to do in Nara, and you don’t want to visit anymore temples/shrines here are the top Nara day trip things you can do.
[…] Nara is great to visit at any time of the year. For photographers who want to capture pretty shots, I highly recommend seeing this old Japanese capital during autumn. November through to mid-December is when you can capture leaves turning golden and brilliant red. Japanese Maples are extra stunning among these changing leaves. The old houses and red temples against the colourful foliage is a breathtaking scene every traveller should see at least once in their lifetime. You can find more of Japan Autumn foliage spots here. […]
[…] plague. This place took us by surprise, and it was not the “nice” type. Ten days in on our chase of the Momiji (aka Japanese Maple) trail took us to countryside Japan. Our love of onsen (Japanese hot springs) […]